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West Covina Motorhome Roof Replacement

Published Mar 03, 25
11 min read

Class C Rv Roof Repair West Covina, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

While you're cleaning up, scrape off any type of debris or old roof covering product, however take care while you do this as you might conveniently extend a tear, and even punch an opening through the roof. You ought to after that dry the roofing as best as you can. Note: Rubber recreational vehicle roofing systems can be extremely slippery when wet.

After the roof is tidy, you are going to intend to check the joints for openings, splits or peeling off, so you can reseal any place essential. In addition to that, you'll want to make a point of resealing all seams annually whether they show signs of wear.

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When it involves picking the very best RV roofing system sealer, you'll wish to take into consideration whether you are fixing a tear, resealing a joint, or securing the entire roof covering. The kind of roofing system is likewise crucial to remember, as motor home roof coverings can be made from either EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) and TPO (Thermal Polyolefin) and you need the product you utilize to be suitable with your roof kind.

Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealer is an excellent choice for discussing old roof seals. It can be utilized for area securing or to reseal every joint on the RV roofing. Just clean the location well and apply with a caulk weapon. Right stuff will level itself out, so do not stress over that part.

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Comparable to the EPDM system noted above, this finish item will certainly cover your TPO roof and assist it last one more 10 years. Before EPDM and TPO, metal was the material of selection for RV roofing systems.

The abovementioned EternaBond is still king when it comes to fixing small damages on a metal roofing system. Motor home metal roofs do require to be totally resealed from time to time.

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See to it to reseal whenever required and resolve resealing all of the joints as soon as every year or two. Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant works well for this work. If your fiberglass roofing system needs to be covered, Dicor Fiberglass Roofing System Layer is a good pick. You'll need to eliminate the existing roof covering.

Do this in tiny portions all along the roof, cutting openings in the rubber roof for any type of feature that will go back into the roof. Change your roof's followers, skylights, and Air conditioning system.

My Motor home roofing system that requires to be changed! If you're like me and have even more time than money, after that maybe your best alternative is to purchase an old RV and repair it up.

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I get it. I got my recreational vehicle over a year ago and really did not have the intestines to begin tackling this job till today. But I'm below to tell you, if I can do it, you can do it. Can I actually do it? Stay tuned and discover out! I got this 1993 Jamboree for $5000.

I've never ever functioned on a Recreational vehicle before and I have to confess, I'm scared. Hopefully if you're taking into consideration doing this yourself, complying with along on my Motor home roof covering substitute project will certainly offer you the nerve to dive in! The tools I utilized today.

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That seemed to be my cheapest choice.

I figured I would instead have it semi-portable so I chose the cover, plus this permits me to change the height up and down when I require to. Of program the least expensive option of all would be to just throw a good tarp over the top of your recreational vehicle for wet days and just deal with bright days! Initially I elevated the legs with 1 1/2 PVC pipeline that fit inside the legs and afterwards I connected a hose pipe clamp around the PVC pipeline to stand up the cover legs.

After that I sawed 1 1/4 square legs from 24's to place inside the cover legs (again holding the cover up with pipeline clamps.) and reinforcing the four edges with an extra 24 screwed to it. This is still a little floppy. I most likely must have handed over for some inflexible steel pipeline from the begin.

Cracks in the EPDM roofing at side of camper. An old spot job on the motor home rubber roof. Lots of caulk piled over old issue locations. As you can see, this roof has actually had a lot of issues over the years. Looking from the inside of the camper there have actually plainly been leaks in numerous locations of the roofing.

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I got hold of an utility knife and started cutting. The very first thing I observed is that there were 2 layers. Under is the original EPDM rubber roofing layer. I recognize it's EPDM rubber and not TPO rubber as a result of the black support. (TPO roof is white on both sides.) On top of my EPDM roofing is a slim motor home roofing system finish that was used later on.

I just left the roofing finishing stuck to the EPDM roof and pulled them up together. Starting to peel off roofing covering.

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I cut lines with an energy knife around components. All rubber roofing gotten rid of from camper. This step went pretty rapidly. There was a glue under the bottom layer of rubber that was still pretty well stuck in lots of locations, but with a good bit of force it peeled off up cleanly.

Now I can see all the damaged plywood roofing system outdoor decking underneath. DIRECTS! You may not want to peel off the rubber! I chose to remove the rubber before getting rid of fixtures so I might see what I was handling. However I need to alert you, the old adhesive was still sticky, and a pain to walk on.

If you assume you'll be saving the roofing outdoor decking plywood (not replacing it), after that you might conserve yourself some clean-up difficulty by eliminating the components first and then peeling off up the rubber! Much more water damaged areas on RV roof covering outdoor decking.

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I opted for the most basic one initially, a vent cap from a kitchen sink pipes vent pipeline. Beginning to scrape caulk and sealant. I utilized a rigid scrape with a chisel-like blade and simply began prying and cracking and scratching and hacking. There is no other means around this, you simply have to begin excavating till you expose the screw heads.

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Loosening the screws in air vent cap. The screws on this vent cap were hex-head metal screws so I utilized a small socket motorist to remove them. Some appeared tidy. Others were rusted and I had to utilize a vice-grip pliers to get the heads and transform them bit by little.

I found an old wasp nest inside the vent cover. This is a sight I'll possibly need to get made use of to, locating the remains of animal habitation high and low. I spend a horrible lot of my time producing good wild animals habitat in my lawn so I do not obtain upset when a creature chooses to set up home in my recreational vehicle.

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The good news is nobody was home in this old nest so I simply tossed it. Possibly I'll place a display over it when changing it. Which brings us to the following factor. You must attempt not to damage these pieces (like vent covers and caps) as you're removing the old caulk and sealer simply in case you need to utilize them once more.

One down, 7 even more components to go. Next I made a decision to tackle the only roof covering ventilation follower that my camper has - West Covina Motorhome Roof Replacement. My roofing air vent additionally had a vent cover over it. So I began scuffing the gunk from those screws. Starting on the roofing vent. Equipment revealed on roofing air vent cap, the very first nut came off tidy.

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Bolt is rotating. The bolts on this motor home roof vent cover were nuts on little screws. The initial one came off great with an expansion outlet package. The second one simply started spinning, indicating the screw was not fixed in position however transforming together with the nut. Bummer. A peek at the equipment holding down the roof covering vent cover.

I didn't have any type of great way to hold the bolt in location so rather I decided to saw via the screws with a reciprocating saw. Sawing with bolts on roofing air vent cover. I used a cordless reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade yet it was difficult to get the blade level adequate to get to the bolts so near the roof covering deck.

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Flexing the blade a little bit to reach close to the roofing deck. Cover removed from roofing system air vent.

Most were so old and rusted that they sheared off when I loosened after that with a great deal of pressure. Loosening the braces that held the air vent cover in position. Then I scuffed more caulk and roof covering sealant off the flange of the roofing system vent itself. I soon found there disappeared screws or equipment quieting so I quit on the scraping and went inside the RV After scraping the caulk and sealant from flange of roof covering vent, no more screws! Loosening the inside cover plate of roofing system air vent fan in recreational vehicle washroom.

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A couple sheared off with a lot of pressure, but 2 wouldn't budge. So I needed to pierce out the screw heads. I selected a drill little bit near the dimension of the shaft of the screws that I had already taken out and began drilling. Choosing a drill bit for piercing out a screw head.

Instead of standing out off the screw head, the plastic simply melted away around the hot screw head. Hope I do not have to recycle this cover.

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All edge brackets got rid of, prepared to draw out. Once the braces were out I went back up top to pry out the the roofing vent. Then I scuffed up all the continuing to be cruds and rubber roof covering. Lifting off the old roofing air vent. There are two cords running to the roofing system vent (a black warm cable and a white neutral cord) that you'll need to clip to eliminate the old vent.

These are the wires attaching the roof venting follower. I clipped them simply above the blue splice joints. Roofing vent removed and tidied up. After clipping the cable and eliminating the air vent, I cleansed up any kind of remaining goop and obtained my initial great take a look at the roofing system frame. It's steel! 1 1/2 inches thick.

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Some RV roof coverings are mounted with timber, others have metal framing. I had no idea what remained in my camper till this point. Not also happy about the amount of rust on it, yet ideally it is still structurally appear! I scratched off some rust and made a huge mess inside the bathroom.

My last objective of the day was to obtain the fridge vent cover off. I saw Recreational vehicle sealer balls at four points on the cover so thought there have to be screws under them.

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Subjecting the screws in the refrigerator air vent cap. Peeling old recreational vehicle roofing finish on top of refrigerator vent cap I also noticed that there was a layer of RV roof finish over the air vent cap. These coatings are painted on with a brush so plainly whoever did this finishing just blobbed in on top of whatever.

Taking off the cover of the fridge roofing system air vent. As soon as the cap is off it's even more of the very same. Removing extra rubber and scraping off motor home roofing system sealant and old caulk. Get comfy since this sucker has 32 screws in it! Ugh. Scuffing lap sealer and caulk from screw heads.

Tearing off the fridge roofing air vent after all screws are eliminated. Almost every screw was in good sufficient condition to remove with a socket chauffeur, but a couple were too corroded and needed to be turned out with vice hold pliers.

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OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I removed the staying rubber roof from under the flange and after that removed the old putty under. I'll clean it far better if and when I make a decision to recycle it. Appears like it remains in decent shape so I probably will. Removing the old putty from the flange of the refrigerator roof air vent.

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