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Pop Up Camper Repair Orange County

Published May 24, 25
11 min read

Camper Awning Replacement Orange County, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is moved right into has actually retreated from the wall surface and turned a bit - Pop Up Camper Repair Orange County. I'm assuming the repair will entail changing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably using larger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We've got broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a poor tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, major repairs, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy experience prior to we realized the axle remained in problem. We haven't had the awning out considering that it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is great. The back brace assembly is fine, yet the front one is split at the bottom and totally damaged through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no longer fastens to the camper.

Does this audio affordable? Also the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a larger gray steel - it's the grey little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our desperation.

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The Motor home is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly such as suggestions as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly even get us through the summertime - without having to put in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd rather discover a quick and efficient remedy. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Remodelling Series!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I got rid of the roofing system trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. But in order to eliminate the fourth one, I require to eliminate the motor home awning too.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roofing outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally observe just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to come off first prior to the last actions of this post (exposing the front and back sides of the roof decking).

Below's a detail of how the awning placing braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this step until the awning got on the ground but I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, merely draw back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the rounded corner at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting bracket on the. Eliminating the mounting brace of the awning. Once the installing brackets are separated, it's time to remove the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is basically similar to a routine piece of light weight aluminum roofing side trim molding other than that near the bottom edge there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're simply replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, then you wouldn't need to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You might need to cut the end with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Simply pull it out! Once the plastic screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went pretty quickly.

As soon as the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) DIRECTS! When I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole point instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was fastened under it. Once you begin pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground little bit by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just slides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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When the 2 established screws were eliminated I can slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Another appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some corroded staples stifling. I pried them out as best I could. The next point holding back the motor home fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed below. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once again I just pried up the plastic insert and pulled out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I might end up removing it later on if I need to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass transition. The roofing outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass transition need to be raised. To raise that, the edge molding need to be removed.

I can turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I can swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I switched over from a scraper to a stiff 6 vast putty blade. This piece damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened the other corner trim in the exact same means, and curved it laterally simply enough so that I can raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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The edge of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting yet glue at this moment) and afterwards I could tug out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

When I scratched up several of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing began to bring up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Currently I can see the steel framing below. Then the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not know just how specifically they handled to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was nicely done. The pieces of roof ply are joined together at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly recognized the roof covering was shedding stamina and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off simply before the initial joint. A close of the steel framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I found a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

It's just standing out with the staples. Finally the edge of the roofing system decking is subjected at the rear of the camper! OK! I've subjected the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge. Very same bargain again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much quieting however adhesive now) and after that I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Pop Up Camper Repair Orange County. Now I can draw out the last little rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the broken bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing started to draw up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the pieces with each other. I do not recognize how specifically they handled to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing system ply are joined together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly realized the roof was shedding toughness and stiffness as I drew up the top layer, so broke it off just prior to the initial seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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