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The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Pomona. I'm presuming the fixing will require replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely making use of larger gauge screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually obtained busted brackets on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, significant repairs, and so on, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience prior to we realized the axle was in trouble. We have not had the awning out since it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, etc, is fine. The back bracket setting up is great, however the front one is fractured at the base and totally broken through at the top, so that the leading support arm no longer affixes to the camper.

Even the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Pomona).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it needs to be totally replaced? The motor home is a 2007, but we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand new during that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - perhaps even get us via the summertime - without having to place in a brand brand-new awning! We remain in a really severe bind because we have actually a trip planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or delayed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to locate a fast and effective option. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I need to remove the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roofing system outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to establish on the ground. Initially I pulled these out. Pressing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also observe how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off initially prior to the last actions of this message (revealing the front and back sides of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Below's a detail of exactly how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this action till the awning was on the ground however I observed this set screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, simply pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the placing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the spherical corner at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting bracket on the. Getting rid of the installing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar requires to be removed. Below's a consider the round network at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're simply replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing like me, then you wouldn't need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Now it's much like removing the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Pull out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you may have to reduce completion with an utility knife if it is put under the rail) and after that just tug it out.

You might have to cut the end with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out!

As soon as the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. When I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole point suddenly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that reduce it the ground gradually by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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Then I leaned the legs back against the camper. When the awning got on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply moves right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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Once the 2 established screws were removed I could glide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can remove the old roof covering outdoor decking is to subject the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

The next thing holding down the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the edge trim molding shown here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so again I simply tore up the plastic insert and pulled out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up eliminating it later if I need to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the edge molding must be gotten rid of.

Then I can turn the trim mold off the side enough to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can turn that item of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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I changed from a scrape to a tight 6 wide putty knife. This piece broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to tear it up. Then I switched from a scrape to 6 inch large taping knife. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the same means, and bent it sidewards just enough so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which implies I'll finish removing those edge trim pieces all the means down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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The edge of the roofing outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much quieting however adhesive now) and then I might tug out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scratched up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The whole point started to draw up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the items with each other. I do not understand just how specifically they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly understood the roof was shedding strength and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the very first joint. A close of the steel framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which suggests I'll end getting rid of those corner trim items all the way down. But we'll get to that later on. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roof covering decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front side.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down however glue at this factor) and afterwards I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Pomona. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

As soon as I scratched up some of the busted little bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to bring up easily unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation at all. Now I could see the steel framework under. However after that the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal strengthened tape under that signs up with the pieces together. I do not recognize how precisely they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are signed up with with each other at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

I quickly recognized the roof covering was losing stamina and rigidity as I drew up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the first joint. A close of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof.