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Camper Awning Replacement West Covina

Published Jun 09, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair And Service West Covina, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing handles tightened down.) I didn't see anything awry, but retracted both awning just to be risk-free. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the rain gutter had been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the ideal hand end of the front awning.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is slid into has retreated from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Camper Awning Replacement West Covina. I'm presuming the repair will involve changing that entire size of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of bigger scale screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually got damaged braces on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, significant repair services, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure before we understood the axle remained in trouble. We haven't had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is great, yet the front one is split near the bottom and entirely appeared at the top, to ensure that the leading support arm no longer affixes to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Also the real support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Camper Awning Replacement West Covina).

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would like recommendations as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps also get us with the summertime - without having to put in a brand brand-new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd instead discover a fast and efficient remedy. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Restoration Series!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I eliminated the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roof. However in order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to get rid of the motor home awning too.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roofing outdoor decking, I require to remove the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to set on the ground. Initially I pulled these out. Pushing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires ahead off first before the final actions of this blog post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roofing decking).

Here's a detail of just how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this step until the awning got on the ground yet I observed this set screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the appropriate end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, merely pull back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the RV awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the placing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded edge at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the right. Getting rid of the mounting brace of the awning. As soon as the installing brackets are separated, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally just like a normal piece of aluminum roofing edge trim molding other than that at the lower side there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To change the roof, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roofing like me, then you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to decrease the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Just pull it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. As soon as I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire point instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. When you begin drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly break complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that reduce it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just moves right off the canvas by moving the whole rail to one side.

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When the two established screws were removed I could glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rustic staples quieting. I tore them out as finest I could. The following point holding down the rv fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I simply tore up the plastic insert and took out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.

I may end up eliminating it later on if I require to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the edge molding need to be eliminated.

I might swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could turn that item of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched from a scrape to 6 inch large taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the exact same means, and curved it sideways just enough so that I could raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

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It's simply popping through the staples. Finally the side of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the rear of the camper! OK! So I've revealed the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Exact same bargain again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling however adhesive at this moment) and after that I might pull out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

Once I scraped up several of the broken bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to draw up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all. Currently I could see the steel framing underneath. However after that the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not recognize just how precisely they handled to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was well done. The items of roofing system ply are signed up with with each other at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly understood the roof covering was losing toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the leading layer, so cracked it off simply before the initial seam. A close of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which indicates I'll finish eliminating those corner trim items all the way down. But we'll get to that later on. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

It's just popping via the staples. Ultimately the side of the roofing outdoor decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! I have actually subjected the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge. Exact same deal once more. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much stifling but glue at this moment) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Camper Awning Replacement West Covina. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts at all holding back the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

Once I scuffed up a few of the damaged bits I acquired a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing started to bring up easily intact without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Now I might see the steel framing under. But after that the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that signs up with the pieces together. I don't know exactly how specifically they took care of to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roof ply are joined together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly understood the roofing was losing stamina and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the initial seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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